Rocamadour – a special place in France

Sunday April 30, 2023 – Our arrival at the train station in Figeac was a little early but as the time passed it was obvious our train would be quite popular. When the train pulled up it had only one car and it was standing room only! It’s a 30-minute trip and we finally got a seat after the second stop, so 10 minutes of comfort.

We were quite surprised that at the Roc-Amodour stop only 3 of us exited the train. We had a 4k walk to arrive at the village so were excited to see directly across the street was a nice hotel with people sitting out front drinking coffee. We beelined for the opportunity to do the same.

Onto the walking path we go. The sign tells us 45 minutes to walk so we shall see if that matches our pace. I think closer to 1 hour… and yes I guessed correctly. One hour to arrive at the beginning of the village and another 20+ minutes to walk down the steep walkway towards the village arches.

Before heading down however we caught a glimpse of Rocamadour and wow! Breathtaking!

Here is some history on Rocamadour according to Brittanica and one additional source:

Rocamadour, village, Lot département, Occitanie région, southwestern France. Its buildings, overlooked by a 14th-century château, rise in stages above the gorge of the Alzou River. Rocamadour owes its origin, according to tradition, to St. Amadour (or Amateur), who chose the spot as a hermitage. It became a place of pilgrimage in the early Middle Ages. More than 200 steps lead up the rock to the sanctuary. The churches in the sanctuary include the Romanesque basilica of Saint-Sauveur and the 12th-century crypt of St. Amadour. The lower town consists of a long street with fortified gateways and a restored 15th-century hall.

Both the Templars and the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, also called the Hospitallers, are associated with Rocamadour.

You can find the Templar’s mark in the construction of the Basilica. There are numerous Templar type crosses carved on columns and one extraordinary one on the floor before the altar in the Basilica of St Sauveur.

Back to our visit… Our first effort would involve taking the Ascenseur (elevator) to the middle level where the church and some shops are located. We went into the church (Notre Dame Rocamadour) and they were holding mass and though we didn’t stay long, enjoyed the music.

Both Gail and I walked the zigzag path up towards the Chateau Belvedere du rampart. I continued to the chateau and paid the additional 2 euro to walk around the highest point in the village. It was pretty fun to climb the stairs and see all of the Templar designs both on the grounds and in the architecture.

Midway along the path to the chateau was the chapel of Saint Amadour built into a cave

Back down the path taking photos along the way we decided it was time for a meal. We chose a terrace restaurant with good food and views that went on for miles.

Next was a little window shopping. We have no room for much but found baguettes for tomorrows lunch (since nothing will be open when we return tonight), I found a colorful scarf and Gail a new hat. All very important!

To finish off the day we climbed up the path to the beginning of the village, mainly tourist restaurants and souvenir shops. Stopped for a beverage and a glacé treat (ice cream). Excellent decision. Sitting for a long while gave us time to fill out postcards and plan additional hotels and gites.

The trip to Rocamadour was arduous getting there via public transport but very worth the effort. I would highly recommend if you ever find yourself in this part of France, take a day and visit!

Leave a comment