We were picked up in Viterbo by Susanna from ToursbyLocals. We had an all-day tour planned with her and we’re so excited for a day off and away from our backpacks!

We started in Viterbo where we currently were, but hadn’t had a chance to finish seeing everything. Every square has a fountain. One in particular we wondered about was the Broken Wings monument which we were told was created to honor the fallen soldiers of WW2. We have noticed so many plaques or statues to the fallen war heroes throughout Italy.

There are two gates entering Viterbo: one to Florence and one to Rome. We entered through the Florence and left through the Rome gate.

The Papal Palace was formerly the Bishop’s house and was remodeled and extended to accommodate the pope beginning in 1257. Popes resides here for 24 years. Between 1268 and 1271, this location was where the first election was held in the conclave format. The group seemed unable to select a new pope, so the people of the town first started eliminating their food and wine portions, and eventually ended with taking the roof of the room they were sequestered in – off! As the weather was getting cold, they finally came to a decision. That took nearly 3 years. It was the first and longest to date.

Underground tour. Below many buildings in the region, and in particular Viterbo, are caves dug out beginning during the Etruscan times. Because the etruscans knew the tunnels so well, they were able to defend their city. The caves have been used over the centuries for hiding during attacks in the early days all the way to WWII, garbage, plagues, bodies waiting for burial and so much more. We did see a couple torture chambers as well!

Etruscan structures often built over/covered up by Roman structures. Below is a great example.

Bomarzo and the Garden of Monsters

The story goes that this was a love story between Francesco Orsini, a 16th-century patron of the arts, greatly devoted to his wife Giulia Farnese. When Orsini’s wife died, he created the gardens to cope with his grief.

The garden gradually became overgrown and neglected, but after the Spanish painter Salvador Dalí made a short movie about the park, and completed a painting actually based on the park in the 1950s, the current land owners, the Bettini family, implemented a restoration program which lasted throughout the 1970s. It is quite amazing!

What a magical and interesting garden!

Next on our agenda was lunch. Susanna drove us to a small town where we enjoyed food made with local fresh ingredients. It was amazing!

We then drove to Civita di Bagnoregio, a hilltop village in central Italy. The Porta Santa Maria gateway was built by the Etruscans. Founded in the 7th century, the Romanesque San Donato Church sits in the main square. An earthquake around 1730 started the separation of the old city built on a rock. After centuries the civita sits alone, ready to crumble after each new earthquake. You can see in the photo below that sandstone is prevalent.

Finally we stopped in Bolseno, a town we stayed in 2 nights ago. After walking all day there is only so much energy a person has remaining so we did not stop to see the tower – but we did today! Great views from the top of the tower looking out over Lake Bolseno.

And now the tour is finished. We had such a wonderful time with Susanna. She took us to her own concert/ opera outdoor space that she with others have created. We may have to plan a trip back to Vetralla (our tour end and where Susanna lives) to attend a performance!

#italianadventure #ViaFrancigena2022 #italianreset