Bolsena to Montefiascone

Wednesday October 10

We planned to leave early but there is always breakfast at 7:30 or 8. They don’t realize we would like to eat at 6:30 and be on our way by 7. At least today we can see Lake Bolsena while we walk. It’s large and beautiful!

Bolsena piazza

So 8 am departure it is today. We made only one short stop at the church to peek inside. The churches in this area are so simple as compared to other areas. They seem to have one nave which is what makes them appear… less fancy.

Onto the trail and we go up. Otherwise we would not have a view of the lake! How considerate of the first pilgrim.

Then we went up and down and then up up up. We stopped and sat at the picnic table and the two gals, Susan and Judith came up the path and just behind them the three German men. They left their wives in Bolsena to spend the day and they will meet them later. Hmmmm that would have been a good idea!

Onward we go with the trail finally leveling out. The lake is back in view. I’ll just keep mentioning the lake because it’s there and it’s calming.

We’ve had three picnic tables and benches to stop at so far which we’ve taken advantage of, even if briefly.

At the top of one long hill two females we had not yet seen came walking up and they sounded American. They were with an REI group of 16 walking random sections of the Via and other trails in Italy. Two were from Portland, two from Beaverton. The two guides were Italian. How fun to run into them!

We ran into them again at a picnic spot with today’s only water fountain. Many tables and Benches. Their guides prepared a lunch for the group which was nice. I sliced cheese with my spork and enjoyed a cracker or two with it. And a pear… we are our own guides and packhorses!

The clear water fountain

Soon we could hear a waterfall. We found two of them. Even small ones are a special find. And then the hill from hell… not the only one of today but a long steep one. At the top was a picnic table in the shade. Perfection!

On we went up to Montefiascone, the highest point on this section of the Via. Suzanne is challenged today because most of the day has been Up… and it’s not gentle slopes!

We found our BnB and it is lovely! Our hostess is wonderful and agreed to prepare breakfast for us at 6 am tomorrow. I know that’s early for her. The room is great and everything smells fresh, even the bath towels are soft. Score!

I suggested Suzanne relax in our room and went out in search of what we missed at the end of the day, as we took the most direct path to our BnB. We did miss more steep hills so that’s something!

I found a large group of local older men gathered in a piazza, sitting on park benches, chatting away. It’s nice how they seem to do this regularly. It doesn’t matter what town we’re in we see groups of men or women just visiting in the afternoon or early evening.

The men

Suzanne had mentioned earlier that she wanted a cocktail tonight. Last nights attempt at one was not successful. Possibly no alcohol in the drink, so I found the perfect bar, ran into Susan and Judith and found a dinner Spot. I just have to convince Suzanne to walk up a hill to get her evening food and beverage. There wasn’t anything closer so we must do it.

Back at the ranch I escorted Sue up the hill to the piazza where we would find cocktails and food. The two young guys running the bar were delighted to make her a drink. They had an assortment of nibbles sitting on the bar and you could have one or one of each. Small pizza bites, olive biscuits, bread and an additional assortment of pizza made 5 different ways.

A happy cocktail smile

Drinks accomplished we went across the street to Dante for dinner. After reviewing the menu, Sue had roasted chicken and potatoes and I went for pasta. Very delicious and I expensive. One bonus to visiting small towns, even when you have to climb to get there!